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Despite its tiny topography, the Aosta Valley is as majestic as it gets. Sweeping Alpine landscapes are dotted with centuries-old castles, fortresses, turrets and towers that still seem to stand watch over picture-book palatial estates. Just beyond the city of Aosta, a trail of fortresses offers a window into the region’s monarchical, military and political past.
With each climb to one of these mountain bastions, you’ll gain a sharper sense of the valley’s heritage, along with breathtaking vantage points that more than reward the effort. Hire a car (or a local driver) and hit the road to experience the power, elegance and military engineering that defines this part of the Aosta Valley.
Openings and closures of many of these sites are seasonal, so check directly with the individual venues and fine-tune this itinerary as necessary. This suggested route starts and ends in the town of Aosta. For the ambitious, it could work as one (very full) day (again, depending on the season). If you’d rather operate at a more relaxed pace, spread the landmarks over two days and sleep in Verrès or Issogne.
Landmark 1: Castello di Cly
With origins dating back to the early 11th century, the crumbling Castello di Cly is one of the Aosta Valley’s oldest and most distinctive fortresses. Located just over 30 minutes’ drive from the city of Aosta, Castello di Cly rises off a rocky promontory above Saint-Denis, a tiny hilltop hamlet shaped by its medieval castle and parish church. The citadel’s primitive design centers on an imposing donjon (a massive medieval inner tower), thick defensive walls and a Romanesque gem of a chapel dedicated to St. Maurice. Passed from noble family to noble family during its feudal heyday, the castle was partially dismantled in the 17th century and its stones hauled off by the House of Roncas to build a palace in nearby Chambave.
Good to know: Guided visits are offered regularly in the late summer (July until the end of August). During the rest of the year, openings are by appointment only. Reservations must be made by calling +39 3204369898.
Landmark 2: Castello di Ussel
Wind your way along SS26 for about 20 minutes to your next stop, the dramatic Castello di Ussel. On a cliff above the Châtillon plain and the Dora Baltea river, this massive Alpine base is a wonderful example of a monoblock fortress, one of the first of its kind in the Aosta Valley. Built in the mid-14th century, it features a smooth façade with stacked mullioned windows topped by crenellations. The standout defensive layout includes two cylindrical corner turrets and a square turret over the entrance. Like many castles in Europe, Ussel changed hands and functions quite a few times before it was left to ruin (at one point, it was a prison). In the 19th century, Baron Macel Bich, inventor of the Bic pen, rescued the monument and later donated it to the region. Renovations were completed in 1998; today, the castle often hosts temporary exhibitions.
Good to know: The castle is open for guided tours in July and August, on select days in September through October, and for special events and exhibitions. From the parking area, you can reach the castle on foot in 15 minutes via a mule track.
Landmark 3: Castello di Verrès
Roughly 25 minutes away stands Castello di Verrès, a formidable 1390 fortress designed by architect Ibleto di Challant. Striking and imposing, it dominates this part of the valley, blending austere defensive power with architectural flourishes that speak to its aristocratic pedigree. Elements include monumental stone staircases with flying buttresses and decorative windows, doors and shelves perched above grand fireplaces. During the Carnival of Verrès held each year, the castle comes alive with a reenactment of mid-15th-century events associated with the death of Francesco di Challant, lord of Verrès. When the nobleman left all of his assets to his daughters Caterina and Margherita — which was unheard of and technically unlawful at the time — chaos broke out among the men of the family, and Caterina and her husband Pierre d’Introd rallied to get the public’s support on their side. In one such instance, the couple flamboyantly folk danced alongside the village youth in the town square, according to local legend. Festivities today commemorate this story through parades, costumed reenactments, folkloric events, food and wine, children’s parties, and general medieval merriment, culminating with the Gran Corso di Gala, an elaborate masked ball behind the castle’s wall.
Good to know: The Carnival of Verrès takes place during the weeks leading up to Lent and has been running since 1949.
Landmark 4: Castello di Issogne
Just five minutes further away is Castello di Issogne, a somber fortress whose facade shows no hint of the spectacular medieval artistry hidden inside. From a vivid Renaissance-frescoed portico depicting daily life in the village in remarkable detail to richly adorned chambers to the courtyard’s Pomegranate Fountain — a 16th-century masterpiece in wrought iron that symbolizes prosperity — Castello di Issogne proves just how elegant a garrison can be. In the late 19th century, Issogne got a complete facelift and today displays some of the home’s original furnishings and household objects.
Good to know: This castle is open year-round, except in November.
BREAK TIME
Depending on the season, your pace and your start time, now would be a good moment to stop for lunch or dinner in Verrès to sample the area’s traditional dishes, such as lardo di Arnad (a fragrant cured pork fat seasoned with spices and mountain herbs), carbonada (beef stew marinated in spiced red wine) or mocetta (a flavored and dried cold cut). If you’re opting for a two-day itinerary, turn in for the night at the Essenza Hotel in Verrès or La Locanda del Maniero in Issogne.
Landmark 5: Fort Bard
Strategically roosting above the Dora Baltea at one of the valley’s narrowest gorges, the 19th-century Fort Bard is a prime example of monumental military might on a grand scale. The fort’s ingeniously designed three-level defensive system, named for three members of Italian royalty — the Ferdinando Opera (bottom); the Vittorio Opera (middle); and the Carlo Alberto Opera (top) — provided maximum military advantage and famously helped delay Napoleon’s 1800 advance toward Italy by two weeks. The complex has a staggering 283 rooms, 50 cannon batteries and enough storehouses to hold ammunition and supplies to last three months. Henry Beyle (better known under his pseudonym, Stendhal) memorialized the fort in his autobiographical novel La vie de Henry Brulard, in which he recounts his days fighting there for the French army as a young soldier.
Good to know: The fort’s museum complex, cultural center, and exhibition space are open daily year-round from Tuesday to Sunday.
Landmark 6: Castello di Sarriod de La Tour
At a little over an hour’s drive from Fort Bard, this medieval marvel takes some more effort but is worth the detour if you have the time. It stands out from everything else on this list for its astonishing Sala delle Teste (Hall of Heads). Nearly 200 carved medieval corbels depicting fantastical figures, grotesques, hybrid animals, dragons, and other mythical creatures decorate the ceiling, considered a masterpiece of profane wood carvings of the 15th century. The rest of the castle is worth seeing for its mix of architectural eras, with the oldest part of the castle dating back to the 11th century. Unlike the many castles in the region that saw revolving doors of families pass through their halls, this property was inhabited by the Sarriod de La Tour family for nearly 900 years. It’s been described as “a treasure chest of art and history.”
Good to know: The castle operates on a seasonal timetable, with uninterrupted hours between April and September and variable morning and afternoon windows between October and March. Standard opening days are Tuesday through Sunday, but in peak summer (July and August), it’s also open on Monday.
From here, you can take a short, 15-minute drive back to Aosta, closing the loop on your castle adventure.
