From Rihanna’s Pope-inspired gown at the 2018 Met Gala to the internet rumor that Pope Benedict’s ruby-red satin loafers were made by Prada to the costume design in the Oscar-winning film Conclave, sacramental vestments have long been a source of sartorial fascination.
With the conclave underway in Vatican City for the selection of a new pope, you’re probably seeing unprecedented levels of divine regalia on your news feed. Here’s a quick look at these theological threads.
Cardinals cloaked in mystery
During the secretive voting sessions for the next Bishop of Rome, the current conclave’s 133 cardinals will be in “choir dress,” which is distinct from what is worn when celebrating the Eucharist. It consists of ceremonial scarlet cassocks (which symbolize the blood of Christ, as well as the willingness of the cardinals to sacrifice themselves for the church), along with white tunics called rochets, a narrower-sleeved variant of the surplice, overlaid with red mozzette (short capes) and long pectoral crosses. Their heads are topped with a red zucchetto (skullcap, the papal version of which is white) and sometimes a biretta (a square hat with ridged flaps). When returning to Casa Santa Marta — the guest house within the Vatican where Pope Francis resided and the cardinals’ lodging place during the conclave — most will change into simple black suits with priest collars or black cassocks, according to veteran Vatican correspondent Phillip Pullela, formerly of Reuters.
Tri-color threads for the Swiss Guard
Watching over the Holy Father and Vatican City for over 500 years, the Swiss Guard is the smallest army of the smallest city-state in the world.
Although the protectors of the pontiff wear a number of different garments, depending on the occasion, the most recognizable uniform is the brightly striped blue, red and yellow Harlequinesque habit. During significant Vatican events, the black berets are replaced with pointy silver helmets topped with red plumes. There’s a legend that says Michelangelo designed the uniforms, but the real credit goes to Jules Repond, a Swiss lawyer and law professor who served as commander of the Pontifical Swiss Guard for eleven years, between 1910 and 1921. Read more about the uniforms here.
The Holy Father’s finery
Once the white smoke clears, just one of the sequestered crimson-clad cardinals will emerge from the Sistine Chapel and officially take his place on the papal throne. Who that will be is anyone’s guess, but what we do know is after the election is consecrated, the newest head of the Roman Catholic Church enters the Room of Tears to change into his white papal cassock (a small, medium, and large were pre-made “on spec”). Dressed for his new role, the new pope will step out onto the balcony of St. Peter’s Basilica to bless the crowd and the millions of people watching around the world.
Although each pope has the discretion to wear whatever garb he chooses, often he will be seen in a lightly adorned mitre, a triangular-shaped headpiece that replaced the opulent papal crown (tiara) deemed too flamboyant. The latter was retired by Pope Paul VI in 1963 for the humble, more service-oriented headpiece.
