Food is a big deal in Rome — after all, the Romans have had more than 2,500 years to perfect their recipes. Not that they eat the same things they did during the days of the Roman Empire. On the contrary, many of the dishes we think about as typical cucina romana were born in the 20th century (looking at you, carbonara!). And while Romans love to eat Roman food, the capital’s culinary scene has been diversifying over the past decades, so you can find a range of influences and cuisines from various regions of Italy and beyond.
If you want to try the most classic Roman dishes, start with a cappuccino and maritozzo in the morning (a bun split in half and filled with whipped cream). For a light lunch or a snack, grab a slice of pizza al taglio or — the most Roman sandwich — pizza e mortazza (pizza bianca filled with mortadella).
At trattorie, osterie and old school ristoranti, you can usually find the quartet of classic Roman pastas: cacio e pepe, carbonara, amatriciana and gricia. Typical secondi (mains) include saltimbocca alla romana (thin slices of veal cooked in butter with prosciutto and sage), coda alla vaccinara (braised oxtail) and abbacchio allo scottadito (grilled lamb chops). Many traditional Roman recipes involve quinto quarto (the fifth quarter, or offal), which have made a bit of a comeback among young chefs. Classic dishes include trippa alla romana (tripe with tomato sauce, pecorino and mint), coratella (a mix of sheep heart, liver and lungs cut into cubes) and pajata (the intestines of a suckling calf).
If artichokes are in season, you can find them prepared in two main ways: alla giudia (fried) and alla romana (braised with wild mint and garlic). Keep an eye out for seasonal vegetables, like porcini mushrooms in the fall and fava beans in the spring. A common contorno is puntarelle (chicory stems dressed with anchovies, garlic and olive oil).
If you go to a pizzeria, start with fritti such as supplì (fried balls of rice) and fiori di zucca (fried zucchini blossoms stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies). You can often find these items at street food spots, too.
Read on for our curated guide to where to find these dishes and so much more.
For the classics
La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali
Conveniently close to the Roman Forum, on the edge of Monti, this charming little family-run restaurant has vaulted brick ceilings and walls covered in quirky art, but try to snag a table outside if you can. The menu mostly sticks to the classics, but it’s worth ordering seasonal specials like the carbonara vignarola and gricia with figs when they’re available.
Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina
The Roscioli family is legendary in Rome’s dining scene, with a mini-empire of five places to eat in the capital and a restaurant in New York City. It all started with the bakery, but if you want a proper sit-down meal, book a table at the Salumeria, which was just a deli until they put some tables in the back and started serving classic Roman pastas. It’s a popular spot, so you’ll need to book a few weeks in advance, but it serves arguably the best carbonara in the city, with perfectly crispy cubes of guanciale, silky eggs and plenty of pecorino.
La Matriciana dal 1870
This family-run restaurant across from the opera house claims to be the place that introduced amatriciana—a dish that hails from the town of Amatrice — to Rome. The ambiance is very 1930s Art Deco, with terrazzo floors, white tablecloths and plates emblazoned with the restaurant’s name. Come for the bucatini all’amatriciana; stay for the retro charm.
Da Enzo al 29
Located on a cobblestone street in the quieter part of Trastevere, Da Enzo al 29 is the quintessential Roman trattoria. Expect a bustling, convivial atmosphere, with no-nonsense waiters efficiently taking and delivering orders, rustic tables and chairs (many of which are outside on the cobbled street in front of the restaurant) and a tightly edited menu of classic Roman dishes. They don’t take reservations and there’s always a wait, but you can have a Spritz while you stand in line.
Pizzeria Ristoro Est! Est! Est!
This historic pizzeria between Piazza della Repubblica and Monti originally opened in 1888 and was recently relaunched by a team of local restaurateurs. The interiors hark back to its 19th century origins, with lots of dark wood, vintage photos and even an old telephone and ice box. The pizza is Roman-style, with a very thin crust, and comes in classic flavors, like margherita and fiori di zucca. You’ll also find pastas and mains.
Contemporary favorites
Pianostrada
Mismatched vintage tables and chairs, fairy lights, an open kitchen and potted plants give this bistro run by an all-female team a charmingly whimsical vibe. Self-taught chef Paola Colucci dishes up riffs on traditional dishes, like deconstructed zucchini blossoms and spaghetti with oven-baked tomato sauce. Don’t sleep on the focaccia — hers is pillowy soft and comes topped with various delicious combinations, such as stracciatella with confit cherry tomatoes and anchovies or prosciutto with fig jam.
Pierluigi
When it comes to seafood, it’s hard to beat Pierluigi, a mainstay with tables on the charming Piazza de’ Ricci. Start with some crudi, then choose from one of the tempting pastas or lobster catalana. The wine cellar here is notable; the owner, Lorenzo Lisi, also runs the wine-focused Hotel de’ Ricci up the street.
180 Grammi
Next-gen pizzaiolo Jacopo Mercuro has made a name for himself with this avant-garde pizzeria in Centocelle, an off-the-beaten-path neighborhood served by Metro line C. The sleek, modern décor feels fitting for a place that tops pizzas with ingredients like Thai green curry and mussels. Reservations can be quite hard to come by, as this place is popular among locals. Book online a couple of weeks in advance.
Marzapane
This sleek, contemporary café/bakery a few blocks north of Piazza del Popolo is one of the few places in Rome where you can find excellent brunch fare like eggs benedict and international classics including a solid club sandwich. Ask for a table upstairs or stop by the bakery downstairs to grab a delicious pastry.
International flavors
Casa Loca
Michelin-starred chef Riccardo di Giacinto and his wife Ramona are better known for their fine dining restaurant, but their frequent visits to Ibiza inspired them to open this Spanish restaurant on Corso Francia, a residential neighborhood in northern Rome. If you want a break from Roman cuisine, come here for outstanding tapas and paella.
El Tiburon
Born in Acapulco, Diana Beltran has written a Mexican cookbook and cooked for Pope Benedict XVI. Her new venture, El Tiburon, is a joyful celebration of Mexican cuisine and culture, with colorful, kitschy decor. If you’re craving frozen margaritas, tuna tostadas and tacos, book a table here.
Ristorante Dao
Restaurateur Jianguo Shu moved to Rome in 1992 via a long and arduous journey across Russia and ex Yugoslavia. Now proprietor of a handful of Chinese restaurants, he brings a refined touch to authentic Chinese cuisine. His latest opening, Ristorante Dao just off Via Veneto, is the most centrally located. (The original location is on Viale Jonio in the residential neighborhood of Montesacro.) Elegant and sleek, it serves excellent dumplings, wontons, fried rice and much more.
Bars, snacks and pit stops
Pasticceria Regoli
Located a couple blocks from Piazza Vittorio, this historic family-run bakery specializes in maritozzi and other cream-filled pastries. Stop by to buy maritozzi, cream puffs or tartlets made with tiny wild strawberries to go or pop into the adjacent café, where you can stand at the bar and drink a cappuccino with one of their maritozzi.
Ciampini Caffè
This old school café has ample outdoor seating on the picturesque Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina. Open all day with orario continuato, it’s the perfect place to meet friends for a coffee, aperitivo or light bite. It’s also a local favorite for gelato, which comes served in dainty silver coupes.
Supplizio
This hole-in-the-wall spot by respected chef Arcangelo Dandini makes superb supplì, plus other fried snacks and light bites. There’s limited seating inside, so take yours to go and look for a spot to perch outside.
Giolitti
This old school gelateria near the Pantheon has been serving up scoops for more than a century. It’s one of the few gelaterie with table service, but most people take their cones to go. Pay at the cash register and give your receipt to the guys at the counter. There’s a huge selection of flavors, from the classic stracciatella and pistachio to more unusual ones like cinnamon and cannolo siciliano, plus fruit-based sorbetti.
Antico Forno Roscioli
Don’t let the long line at the famed Roscioli family’s bakery intimidate you; it typically moves quickly. Once inside, choose from pizza bianca, pizza rossa or other kinds of bread, pizza and baked goods. Our favorite thing to get here is pizza e mortazza.
Er Buchetto
This pint-sized spot near Termini station specializes in one thing and one thing only: porchetta, the slow roasted pork made in the Castelli Romani, a series of hill towns southeast of Rome. Fifth generation owner Alessandro personally slices the porchetta from a special cart by hand and piles it onto a crusty roll. Snag one of the few tables if you can and wash it down with some local wine.
Healthy fare
ViVi
When you’re craving a really good salad or poké bowl, look to this certified B corp and sustainable female-run brand. ViVi has five conveniently located bistros across Palazzo Bonaparte in Piazza Venezia, Piazza Navona, Villa Pamphili and even inside the Galleria Borghese. Beyond fresh salads and bowls, they serve vegan curry, falafel and other plant-based options as well as cheeseburgers and pasta.
Fine dining
La Pergola
Set atop the swanky Rome Cavalieri, a Waldorf Astoria Hotel on Monte Mario, Rome’s only restaurant with three Michelin stars has recently been revamped with a chic modern design and new menus by Heinz Beck, the chef who has helmed it for the past 30 years. A scholar of nutrition, Beck takes an exacting approach that verges on scientific, and the results speak for themselves. Every dish is perfectly balanced in flavor and texture. Impeccable service, an impressive wine list and incredible views from the terrace add up to make this an unforgettable gastronomic experience.
Ristorante All’Oro
At his Michelin-starred restaurant inside the H’All Tailor Suite hotel, lauded chef Riccardo di Giacinto and his wife Ramona have created a fine dining experience that’s anything but stuffy. Their playful approach has yielded iconic dishes like carbonara foam served in an egg shell and coda alla vaccinara disguised as a Ferrero Rocher. Go for the All’Origine tasting menu, which shows off the restaurant’s greatest hits.
INEO
At this intimate restaurant inside the Anantara Palazzo Naiadi hotel on Piazza della Repubblica, chef Heros De Agostinis creates gourmet dishes inspired by his childhood memories and ample experiences abroad. Exotic flavors from Asia, South America and beyond add worldly flair to dishes made predominantly with local ingredients. Don’t sleep on the roving bread cart, which boasts a wide selection of irresistible carbs (the sfoglia is our favorite).
Pulejo
At first glance, this Michelin-starred restaurant in Prati might seem to have a Scandinavian influence. After all, renowned chef Davide Puleio cut his teeth at Noma in Copenhagen, in addition to restaurants in London and Rome. His menu, though, respects Italian culinary traditions, transforming humble ingredients into flavorful dishes like the peperone come manzo, or roasted red peppers presented like beef tartare. Order a la carte if you must, but we recommend putting yourself in his capable hands and choosing one of the tasting menus.
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