Soriano nel Cimino is a classic central Italian hill town.
With its terraced streets and 13th-century castle, you might think it’s in Tuscany or Umbria. Though it does border both regions, its location in Lazio, 63 miles north of the center of Rome, gives it a more under-the-radar status. Perched 509 meters above sea level in the Tiber Valley and circled by chestnut groves, its strategic position also made it an outpost for the Etruscans.
Travelers who do find their way to Soriano — as Los Angeles native Michael Kovnick did during his first trip to Italy in 1984 — discover a village steeped in history, and if they happen to be there in July and August, a palio (horse race) pitting neighborhood teams against each other, similar to the one in Siena. In October, Soriano’s lively multi-day celebration of chestnuts, complete with medieval pageantry, is reason enough to plan a trip.
When Kovnick first came to Soriano, the population was about the same as it is now — 8,000 — and there were very few visitors, which quickly earned him a reputation as “The American” in town. He then ended up splitting his time between northern Lazio and the United States after meeting his wife, Paola, in Soriano, her hometown. After realizing how much Kovnick’s visiting friends loved experiencing what they call the “real Italy,” the couple created and expanded a travel company known as Culture Discovery Vacations.
There are a few more visiting Americans in Soriano and other villages nearby in northern Lazio today, but not the droves that are found in Tuscany and Umbria’s villages and cities. That’s just one reason why anyone who loves those two central Italian regions, but is seeking new experiences in Italy, would be wise to take a trip to Soriano nel Cimino and the area around Mount Cimiano and northern Lazio, taking some of the key highlights here as a guide. What you’ll find are walled medieval cities, Renaissance palaces, and even the former home of the popes as a walking history lesson.
Join the revelry at the Chestnut Festival in Italian hill town Soriano nel Cimino
There are many reasons to plan a trip around the Sagra delle Castagne (Chestnut Food Festival) during the first two weekends in October. Not only are roasted chestnuts and other chestnut-focused dishes a highlight, the time travel aspect of seeing residents dressed in medieval garb and reenacting archery matches and jousting duels, perusing antique fairs, and sharing recipes from medieval times to the present, makes it worth it.
Cross the bridge to Civita di Bagnoregio
The only way to reach the Etruscan-founded Civita di Bagnoregio, which today has about 10 residents, is by crossing a half-mile-long pedestrian bridge. Isolated by erosion of the volcanic tuff that the village rests on, the city with less than a quarter-mile radius shows its history through a 12th-century arch that marks its entrance, cobblestone streets and a tunnel that pre-dates Rome.
Walk the halls of Villa Farnese in Caprarola
Villa Farnese, also known as Villa Caprarola, was commissioned by the house of Farnese in the 16th century. What would become the summer palace for Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, later known as Pope Paul III, is today set above the town of Caprarola. Exploring the villa is a chance to see examples of Renaissance architecture designed around a pentagon with a circular courtyard. Visitors can enter the villa's salons and halls where restored frescoes reveal Renaissance grandeur. Though the villa is open to the public, the casino and the gardens are one of the Italian presidential homes.
See where the popes lived in Viterbo
The walled medieval city of Viterbo is also an important monument of Italian political history. Among its half dozen palaces is the former papal residence of eight popes during the 13th century to protect them from Roman unrest. Though not all of the palace is open to the public, there are views over the city from the Pope’s Loggia and its series of decorative arches. In the Conclave Hall, visitors can see where history’s longest conclave (the gathering of cardinals to elect a new bishop of Rome, or Pope) lasted for 33 months in 1268 after the death of Pope Clement IV.
If you’re intrigued by Northern Lazio, Culture Discovery Vacations’ planners have the details mapped out for you. Italy experts with an emphasis on “living the real life” offer all-inclusive trips with a focus on cultural and culinary experiences. Visit the website https://www.culturediscovery.com/ to check out trips headed to Italy in 2025 and beyond.
