There’s a distinct bohemian buzz as you walk through Corso di Porta Ticinese, the street connecting Colonne di San Lorenzo to Piazza XXIV Maggio. Ticinese is one of Milan's liveliest districts and a favorite among young people, students and trendy types, with its vinyl and vintage shops, stylish pop-up businesses, tattoo parlors and late-night hangouts. One of the city’s main shopping streets, Via Torino, connects Ticinese to Piazza Duomo, only a few minutes away on foot.
From one end of the district to the other, the historic city gradually gives way to booming youth culture. While the Ticinese area is a social hub for some — a place to meet for aperitivo or window shopping at indie boutiques — for others, it’s a captivating place to call home. Youthful newcomers live alongside multigenerational households, and historic haunts share the streets with of-the-moment hotspots. In Ticinese, the old and the new merge in a singular way.
Here are some of the best ways to immerse yourself in Ticinese’s dynamic culture.
Indulge in gelato and crepes
It’s not uncommon to see a long line of savvy, sweet-toothed visitors overtaking the road around Gelateria Le Colonne (Corso di Porta Ticinese 75). Open daily from 1pm until just after midnight, this little shop woos people in with its aromas, but keeps them coming back for its crepes and gelato — Nutella, dark and white chocolate, ricotta and strawberries are among the most popular ingredients. Crepe fillings can be customized to your heart’s content, and everything is prepared in front of you, then served on a warm saucer with a sprinkling of powdered sugar on top.
Go on a musical journey at Serendeepity
Serendeepity (Corso di Porta Ticinese 100) is a hub for music-loving Milan visitors, locals and creative wanderers of all kinds. With a wide variety of vinyl records and vintage apparel, plus a music production studio at the end of the street, the two-level concept store’s walls are lined with LP covers and an assortment of new Italian and international CDs and vinyl. Genres like jazz, rock, funk, and new wave make it difficult to leave with just one record. Comics, graphic novels, music-themed books, films and urban art are also for sale, along with T-shirts, jackets, sweaters and bijoux from niche designers.
Lose yourself in literature at Verso Libri
Close to the second arch of Porta Ticinese is Verso Libri (Corso di Porta Ticinese 40), one of Milan’s most enchanting independent bookstores. You’ll find a wide selection of indie books and a bar serving coffee and herbal tea by day and wine and beer by night. Verso maintains a lively events calendar, featuring book presentations and readings, courses, cabaret evenings and theatrical performances, and its staff members are friendly and approachable. Grab a page-turner and retreat to the comfy red sofa upstairs for a peaceful afternoon of reading, or, if you’ve got kids in tow, take note of the charming and child-friendly area on the ground floor by the stairs.
Take in the history of San Lorenzo Colonne
The ancient Roman colonnade, also known as the Colonne di San Lorenzo, is unmissable and one of Milan’s best-known landmarks. Entering through the medieval gate and modern-day tram stop, it’s impossible not to be captivated by the Roman columns standing in front of the imposing San Lorenzo church. Opposite the Colonne are some reasonably priced bars and trendy shops frequented by the young Milanese set; the area gets crowded and noisy in the evenings, but with all the charms and youthful energy you’d expect. Take a seat on the church steps and soak up the vibrant historical setting.
Go treasure hunting at the Navigli Antiques Market
On the last Sunday of every month, collectors from across Italy converge on the Navigli Grande, which transforms into a giant outdoor flea market, attracting bargain hunters and vintage enthusiasts. From Viale Gorizia to Via Valenza, the waterside market spans a nearly two-kilometer strip lined with 400 stalls. Here you'll find everything from antique furniture to books and artwork, jewelry, old records, glassware and porcelain. Two of the streets, Corsico and Paoli, focus on high-quality vintage and host more than 380 antique dealers each month. The market is a realistic reflection of the Ticinese community, attracting an eclectic mix of age groups. Take a break from perusing the items and explore the open neighborhood shops, eateries, and art studios to enhance your day of bargain hunting.
Good to know
Getting to Porta Ticinese from Piazza del Duomo: The roughly two-kilometer walk between Piazza Duomo and Porta Ticinese takes approximately 11 minutes. Tram 3 from Via Torino arrives in Corso di Porta Ticinese in ten minutes or less. Tickets cost €2. See atm.it.
Touring there: Neiade Tour & Events runs a guided tour to discover street art in the Navigli and Porta Ticinese areas. The meeting point is Corso di Porta Ticinese, 35, in front of Basilica di San Lorenzo, near the sculpture of Emperor Costantino. €19 adults. Duration is about two hours. See neiade.com.
Staying there: In an elegant 18th century palace, Hotel Regina (Via Cesare Correnti 13) is close to Colonne di San Lorenzo and offers high-quality services and a diverse range of entertainment options for guests of all ages. Prices start at €149 per night. Call +39 02 58106913 or visit hotelregina.it.
