In Bolzano, Check Everything You Think You Know About Italy at the Door

The Dolomites are written about frequently, but you’ll rarely see any mention of their only real city, Bolzano; if you do, it’s usually in relation to the famous annual Christmas market. But the city is much more than a mere backdrop for merry holiday vendors. It’s a bizarre yet beautiful Italo-Austrian borderland, home to pizza served with specknodel, Europe’s oldest man and Benito Mussolini’s travertine marble utopia, preserved as an urban museum of Fascism.